“Every time I feel like I don’t take advantage of my time off, I’m like, ‘What am I doing? There’s so many better places I could be’… It’s weird but I feel like I have an urgency to see everything as fast as I can.

“That anticipation of being like, ‘Can I do this? How am I gonna do this?’ Overcoming that and gradually pushing your limits and getting more comfortable is sort of a high that you get addicted to.”

“The rock quality didn’t look great… and as soon as I stood up, the block I was standing on slid out from underneath me, and all this rock started falling out of the wall.”

“When I’m surfing, nothing else matters. I feel like it’s the most connected you could be to nature. The ocean controls what it’s going to do, and you’re just flowing with it.”

“It’s thinking of death for so long, really. Thinking of the risk is what gets to me. I push through it, but there’s times where my legs are shaking, because I’m scared, not because I’m tired.”

“I wouldn’t say I was depressed before the journey, but it was during that time where I felt truly grateful to be alive, more so than any other time.”